Contact With UA0SJ On 17 Meters

ua0sj

Steve, W4HKL

Echolink Node

I’m running an echolink node on 146.460 simplex in the Caryville area.  It has about an 8-15 mile radius running only 10 watts into a Diamond low-profile dual-band base antenna on transmit.  I was running 50 watts, but unless it begins to get some use, I think 10 will be fine for now.  50 watts gives me better coverage past Speedwell and into Lake City but who knows if anyone but myself is interested.

It is open for all amateur use.  I do ask that you read up on proper Echolink etiquette before connecting up to some remote location and doing something lame like calling “CQ Repeater,” lol!

The connect prefix is 800.  For example, if you wanted to connect to the Echotest server, 9999, you would key in the DTMF string 8009999.  To disconnect, use the # key.  * and 80 give the status, and 123 will play a short explanation of DTMF commands.

If you have a favorite Node, Repeater, or Conference Server you’d like to see added to the shortcuts, email me at w4hkl@live.com and I’ll add it to the existing ones.  I’ll add the list of existing shortcuts later on this week.

W4HKL

EFJ Low Power Repeater Enclosure

Long story short…  I saw an E. F. Johnson-based mini-repeater up for bid on Ebay several years ago and got it for $130 shipped.

The receiver and exciter are from an EFJ UHF repeater.  Even though the enclosures look like complete mobiles, only half of each is in each enclosure.  An RC100 controller handles the ID, etc., and a Phelps-Dodge mobile duplexer rounds out the mix.  The original freq. was 444.575 which coincided with the Knoxville RACK repeater so I got a couple of crystals from ICS and soldered them in.  I tried to align the transmitter but in the end, Henry, WB4IVB aligned the whole shebang.  I actually have a 100 watt EFJ amp to go with the repeater. However, I sold the higher power set of duplexers and will have to find another set before the amp can be used.

An empty McDonalds fry container is applied to ward-off evil spirits and repeater gremlins.  The trans-fat residue does the trick.

The enclosure is an outdoor cable tv box you see adorning many power poles.  W4TEY found it at the Morristown Hamfest a few years ago and generously donated it to the cause.  It’s vented but in a way that helps keep water out.  The top portion has plenty of room for the repeater, controller, duplexers, and power supply.  A small fan would help but at 20 watts out may not be necessary with a commercial exciter.

Right now, I think the best use of this repeater would be at a medium profile site with a couple of beefy deep cycle backup batteries backing up the when PS.  If paired with a high-gain antenna, this modest set-up could really get out and be available during power outages.

I set up the Diamond 718 temporarily at the house to give it a whirl around town.  We’ll see how it goes.

Steve, W4HKL

Mini-Rigrunner

No pics of the inside…  it was late and I forgot.  Maybe later.  Basically, just strip the insulation off the wires and solder the heck out of the connections to the terminal posts.  Make sure you make good physical connections before you solder (washer and nut, good crimps, etc.)

Not sure why I need this…  except that I had the right parts laying around.

Steve, W4HKL

Diamond 718 Repeater Antenna -

“It’s Alive!!!!!!!”

The Diamond 718 UHF antenna that Mike, WM4MD graciously donated to me a while back is 99.99% ready to go.

After an unfortunate series of events a few years ago up on White Oak, the 718 turned Lawn Dart after it was dropped from near the top of the 100 foot tower.

“Ahhh…  the childhood memories these bring back…”

The top of the antenna is approx 8” below the top cap and the bottom section is approx 12” above the bottom mesh cap.  This should allow the standoffs to clamp onto the pvc without covering any portion of the radiating element.  The entire length of the antenna is approximately 15’3”.

Anyway, the antenna is now housed inside two sections of PVC – a 5 foot (2” diameter) base section and a 10 foot (1.5” diameter) upper section. Obviously, the antenna will have to be side mounted to the tower with both an upper and lower standoff to give it the necessary support.

The sections are screwed together and capped. All that’s left is caulking up the sections – after adding a coax pigtail to the antenna through the bottom mesh cap.