W4HKL

Echolink Update

2011-08-25T12:30:00.001-04:00

I have the 146.460 node in listen-only mode while it is connected to the KC4QLP-C node. This node provides coverage of the 14.325 Hurricane Net. I will continue to do so until Hurricane Irene has passed.

Steve, W4HKL

Contact With UA0SJ On 17 Meters

2011-08-20T22:00:00.001-04:00

ua0sj

Steve, W4HKL

Echolink Node

2011-08-15T23:06:00.001-04:00

I’m running an echolink node on 146.460 simplex in the Caryville area. It has about an 8-15 mile radius running only 10 watts into a Diamond low-profile dual-band base antenna on transmit. I was running 50 watts, but unless it begins to get some use, I think 10 will be fine for now. 50 watts gives me better coverage past Speedwell and into Lake City but who knows if anyone but myself is interested.

It is open for all amateur use. I do ask that you read up on proper Echolink etiquette before connecting up to some remote location and doing something lame like calling “CQ Repeater,” lol!

The connect prefix is 800. For example, if you wanted to connect to the Echotest server, 9999, you would key in the DTMF string 8009999. To disconnect, use the # key. * and 80 give the status, and 123 will play a short explanation of DTMF commands.

If you have a favorite Node, Repeater, or Conference Server you’d like to see added to the shortcuts, email me at w4hkl@live.com and I’ll add it to the existing ones. I’ll add the list of existing shortcuts later on this week.

W4HKL

EFJ Low Power Repeater Enclosure

2011-07-17T16:30:00.001-04:00

Long story short… I saw an E. F. Johnson-based mini-repeater up for bid on Ebay several years ago and got it for $130 shipped.

The receiver and exciter are from an EFJ UHF repeater. Even though the enclosures look like complete mobiles, only half of each is in each enclosure. An RC100 controller handles the ID, etc., and a Phelps-Dodge mobile duplexer rounds out the mix. The original freq. was 444.575 which coincided with the Knoxville RACK repeater so I got a couple of crystals from ICS and soldered them in. I tried to align the transmitter but in the end, Henry, WB4IVB aligned the whole shebang. I actually have a 100 watt EFJ amp to go with the repeater. However, I sold the higher power set of duplexers and will have to find another set before the amp can be used.

An empty McDonalds fry container is applied to ward-off evil spirits and repeater gremlins. The trans-fat residue does the trick.

The enclosure is an outdoor cable tv box you see adorning many power poles. W4TEY found it at the Morristown Hamfest a few years ago and generously donated it to the cause. It’s vented but in a way that helps keep water out. The top portion has plenty of room for the repeater, controller, duplexers, and power supply. A small fan would help but at 20 watts out may not be necessary with a commercial exciter.

Right now, I think the best use of this repeater would be at a medium profile site with a couple of beefy deep cycle backup batteries backing up the when PS. If paired with a high-gain antenna, this modest set-up could really get out and be available during power outages.

I set up the Diamond 718 temporarily at the house to give it a whirl around town. We’ll see how it goes.

Steve, W4HKL

Mini-Rigrunner

2011-07-08T23:11:00.001-04:00

No pics of the inside… it was late and I forgot. Maybe later. Basically, just strip the insulation off the wires and solder the heck out of the connections to the terminal posts. Make sure you make good physical connections before you solder (washer and nut, good crimps, etc.)

Not sure why I need this… except that I had the right parts laying around.

Steve, W4HKL

Diamond 718 Repeater Antenna -

2011-07-08T20:33:00.001-04:00

“It’s Alive!!!!!!!”

The Diamond 718 UHF antenna that Mike, WM4MD graciously donated to me a while back is 99.99% ready to go.

After an unfortunate series of events a few years ago up on White Oak, the 718 turned Lawn Dart after it was dropped from near the top of the 100 foot tower.

“Ahhh… the childhood memories these bring back…”

The top of the antenna is approx 8” below the top cap and the bottom section is approx 12” above the bottom mesh cap. This should allow the standoffs to clamp onto the pvc without covering any portion of the radiating element. The entire length of the antenna is approximately 15’3”.

Anyway, the antenna is now housed inside two sections of PVC – a 5 foot (2” diameter) base section and a 10 foot (1.5” diameter) upper section. Obviously, the antenna will have to be side mounted to the tower with both an upper and lower standoff to give it the necessary support.

The sections are screwed together and capped. All that’s left is caulking up the sections – after adding a coax pigtail to the antenna through the bottom mesh cap.

Part II - Replacing and Relocating The Battery In A Kenwood TM-331 (TM-241, TM-441, Etc.

2011-07-05T09:17:00.001-04:00

I’ll type up the notes for this over the next few days.

I’m on Steve-Time… W4HKL.

Remove the plastic cover on the battery.

This is the side we’ll pry up first.

The polarity is as follows:

Top battery lead : Negative

Bottom lead: Positive. You might want to pencil this in on the board somewhere to remind yourself later.

Let’s get this show on the road…

Use your fingers and the screwdriver… get it up far enough to get some angle cutters in.

Press the lower insulating pad back down if you can.

Yes, the bottom of the battery is the positive side.

I wondered why the TM-331 would retain memories most of the time yet sometimes lose them.

0.15 Volts… it should be around 3.0 Volts.

Time to prep the batter holder, etc.

This is more like it… and more likely to retain memory.

Making sure the battery will be insulated from everything.

Don’t tin these leads or you won’t be able to wind them around the battery holder terminals. After winding, I bend the pins down a little to reduce the footprint of the holder. This will have to fit inside the radio…

Soldered…

I tinned the ends here before crimping them inside the old battery tabs coming from the board.

Soldering to the crimped ends lends a lot more mechanical strength to the connection as well as a good electrical connection…

After you’ve heated the crimp… and also flowed a little more solder on the end of the tinned ends of the wire and up into the crimp… test your voltage on the board. It should be 3+ volts.

Now tape it all up.

Battery too…

Note that I bent the wire well away from the solder joint in order to get the cord going in the right direction.

Congratulations! You’re 10-20 minutes from being finished…

Work backward… and be careful. Don’t get in a hurry.

Routing the cables back into the RF section of the radio.

Don’t forget this green wire loop.

Again, I was lucky – the buttons were staying in place. If you’re are “squirrelly,” you may have to keep the faceplate tilted and bring the radio up to meet it.

Press all the button pads… make sure none are in a bind before proceeding.

You can tell if one’s stuck, etc..

Click… click…

Now for this little SOB… all I can say is take your time, work a little from one side and then the other…

and hold your mouth right.

Time to power up, enter a frequency, and give it a whirl.

Powering down, cutting off the power supply, and then seeing if the memory is retained.

Success!

Time for the moment of truth… will it work?

- W4HKL

Replacing and Relocating The Battery In A Kenwood TM-331 (TM-241, TM-441, Etc.

2011-07-04T19:15:00.001-04:00

No write-up yet… just pictures.

Will type up notes over the next few days.

- Steve, W4HKL

Here’s a look at what’s needed to perform the battery swap and relocation.

The most important component for protracted work of any kind.

The Kenwood TM-330 220 Mhz rig.

The following 4 screws need to be removed.

Flip it over and remove the 4 on the bottom cover.

I’m pointing to the areas you need to gently tug on to remove the covers.

Once you get it tilted up you can pull it free. Note the tabs. You will have to do this process in reverse at the end of the batter swap/replace.

Flipping it back to repeat the process on top.

The top removed.

I’m glad someone on the design team designed a nice, long speaker wire.

Remove the battery mount.

This is the connector for the optional CTCSS decoder. Note how it is routed into the faceplate area as the battery lead will be placed beside it.

Now the hard part. Once the knobs are pulled loose you will have to CAREFULLY lift these up and gently slide the black plastic faceplate cover off.

Did I mention they’re brittle and extremely annoying as they have a nasty habit of snapping back on as you try to slide the next one off?

Poweraid caps make a nice place to store various parts.

Little buggers…

This part took about 10 minutes.

Finally!

Keep working it back and forth until its off.

We need to remove this part of the faceplate to get to the battery. Be careful of the buttons. I was lucky with this radio. I screwed up with a TM-731 and allowed all the buttons to fall of. Imagine spilling a box of chicklets onto your desk and carpet – several times.

Fortunately the retaining nut on the mic plug was removable with these forceps.

And the other nut…

Easy does it…

But wait, there’s more!!!

Remove the metal covering… 6 or so screws spread around the top, bottom, and sides.

Okay, this it it the brains of the unit. Use an anti-static wrist strap… or just make sure you touch something grounded every so often as a precaution.

On a positive note, the TM-241, 441, etc, are a LOT easier to get into than this. In fact, after doing the 241 and 441, I kept thinking “what’s next” with the 331.

3 screws need to be removed. They are pointed out here.

The last step to removing the CPU board is sliding it off the connectors pointed out here. You have to be careful. It won’t just slide loose. Use your fingers and work each side back and forth until you see the gap form between the two sides of the connectors.

There is goes…

Whew…

Note that only the ends of this board are supported when placed like this. Be careful not to press down hard in the middle and flex the circuit board.

Continued in Part II…

2011-06-12T17:17:00.000-04:00

Interesting article on how to homebrew your own 2 meter duplexer... these guys prove that the amateur radio spirit of "if you can't find it, make it" is still alive and well!

http://www.arrg.us/pages/WB3AYW/VHF-duplexer.htm

New: How to Modify a Sinclair Q2220E 132-174 MHz Duplexer to 220 MHz by David Cameron - VE7LTD

http://www.irlp.net/duplexer/q2220e/

Also... these guys are nuts - and converting a Micor repeater to 220 Mhz use. Neat...

http://home.comcast.net/~micorrepeater/

Replacing And Relocating The Battery In A Kenwood TM-721

2011-02-11T18:31:00.001-05:00

Not a tutorial, just a pictorial. I might put step-by-step notes in at a later date.

I will note that the knobs don’t have to be removed. I highly recommend you leave the main faceplate on unless you absolutely need to dig around in there, i.e. lamp bulb replacement. Those little buttons are hard to get back in once they fall out.

Note: After completing the work, please look for anything that might possibly short-out and tape it up before applying power.

(Click on pictures to enlarge)

The top and bottom covers must be removed in order to swing down the head unit. The battery is in the front of the radio behind the LCD display.

There are 6 screws that must be loosened or removed in order to swing down the head. Don’t forget the ones in the middle on the top and bottom… Leave the lower two screws on each side in (you’ll know which ones when you look at it) so the head only swings down – providing strain relief for several cables and connectors.

Battery was soldered where the electrical tape has been placed. The positive connection is on the right –closest to the white ribbon cable.

The positive lead is closest to the white ribbon cable.

New battery will be placed in the main compartment of the radio.

Don’t forget to wrap all this up with tape so it doesn’t short out against other components in the radio.

Wire routed to where the new battery will be placed. This is a tight fit so don’t use too heavy a gauge of wire… take your time and keep poking the wire with your finger to keep it in place when you swing the head unit back in place.

3 Volt battery from Radio Shack, etc.

Insulated…

Checking for voltage at the board before taping it all up.

It’s a tight fit but you can fit it all back together. I wish I had found a smaller 3 Volt battery and holder. The top cover houses the speaker and it’s a really tight fit. It took me a while to figure out how to fit the new battery among the electrolytic Caps.

Battery relocated to main body of radio. Take your time as the speaker makes it a tight fit. Of course I checked for stray capacitance, etc., after doing the replacement…

Note… it worked at first but then lost memories again after an hour. Checked the battery, it was down to 1.5 V. Re-taped all connections again and entered some freqs. Two hours after turning the radio off, the mems were still there. I must have shorted the positive side of the battery to ground somehow in the first go-round and partially drained it. At least it will be a lot easier to replace when/if needed.

Note: After being shut off and not powered up for 4 days, the TM-721 still had it’s memories intact when powered on. Nice.

Note: Just completed battery replacement on a TM-731. This one went about like the first one. The one hang-up was one of the battery wires breaking loose from the original battery leads when I swung the head unit back up. Solution: a new arrangement in routing the battery wires and resoldering to the leads. Afterwards, the memories are being retained after power is removed. Good deal.

TM-731A – same fix… and it worked!

Now I’ve got another 731A to perform the battery replacement AND the lamp replacement on…

Note- Decided not to tackle the lamp replacement at this time as the radio is used in a well-lighted area… maybe next month.

However, the previous owner had already replaced the original battery in a similar manner – except they routed the new holder and battery to the bottom section of the radio. Much more room!

I did have to replace the holder as the one there wasn’t quite right for the 3 Volt batteries I had purchased for this project. However, it did make for an easier install and I thank whoever did the mod.

- W4HKL

ps. It seems that some Kenwoods of the TM-721/731 vintage on occasion “lose their minds” and won’t hold memory regardless of the condition of the battery. I think I have had one of these radios in the past, but I’m not sure. Regardless, if you have a radio that doesn’t seem to hold memory even with a good battery, you might search around on the Net for a mod concerning this.

Everything You Wanted To Know About 900 Mhz But Were Afraid To Ask.

2011-02-10T18:33:00.000-05:00

Last night I had a very nice QSO with KD4CWB on his 147.000 repeater concerning the pros and cons concerning amateur radio operation concerning the 900 Mhz band.

What I suspected and he confirmed through his considerable knowledge and experience on the subject was that the main stumbling block is locating and converting commercial gear to use on the 33cm band.

I’ve been looking into getting a radio on the band and possibly putting together a repeater for remote base usage at home. During this time I’ve amassed quite a few quality links dealing with all things 900 Mhz. I’m going to post them here in order to share them with others in the amateur community as well as keeping them together in a place I can find them!

The 33 CM Band at Wikipedia

Exploring 900 MHz - Radios for 900 MHz / 33 Centimeters & Their Modifications

(According to the author of the site above, the Motorola GTX900 can be programmed to work on the 900 Mhz amateur band.)

NEW: http://www.kw902.com/ The Kenwood 900Mhz Page

GEMOTO.COM - helping convert commercial equipment for ham use

San Diego 900Mhz Amateur Radio Club

Adventures in 33cm

WA1MIK’s Motorola Mobile GTX 900 Mhz info page

WA1MIK’s Motorola Portable GTX 900 Mhz info page

Batlabs GTX info

N1SU’s GTX Page

Batlabs Batboard search for “GTX”

MURS Frequencies

2011-02-03T12:12:00.001-05:00

Knowing what the MURS Frequencies are is just half the battle. The PDF below from Teledesign contains additional info concerning the required bandwidth for some of those frequencies.

Unlicensed VHF

Didn't know you could run data on them. Cool.

W4HKL

Website of Classic Microphones

2011-02-02T12:01:00.000-05:00

Table of Contents

Cool website with info and hi-res photos of many, many classic microphones.

It's hard to classify some of these as "tools" or "art."

W4HKL

Crossband into Dot325

2010-10-09T00:50:00.001-04:00

The only way I can make the haul lengthwise over the Powell Valley (TN) ridgeline running between Cumberland Gap, TN and Caryville, TN is to use a beam and 35 watts. Below is the antenna setup.

The 2 meter quarterwave vertical and the DB Products yagi are the antennas I’m using.

The diplexer lets me use only one coax run. The crossband rig is a Kenwood TN 731.

The view towards White Oak…

The Kenwood is a little older, but I honestly enjoy using it as much or more than the newer rigs I have. I use a simplex freq on 2 meters that SERA recommends and the output is set for the Mboro 440 machine. When funds allow, I’ll replace this with 2 Alinco monobanders running thru an NHRC6 or NHRC7 controller… one of the few controllers that can handle 2 monobanders. This will allow IDing on both bands… as well as being able to remotely enable and disable the repeater, etc.

The “Tank…” a Kenwood TM 731

443.950 Final Build

2010-10-07T17:44:00.001-04:00

The 443.950 has been installed inside the Motorola cabinet provided by WB4IVB. Air flow throughout the cabinet is good and, more importantly, the rear cabinet door now closes after moving the rails all the way to the front. I don’t want this to become a playground for mice in the winter months!

The receiver/exciter/amplifier consists of a GE Mastr II Exec conversion done by WB4IVB. The sensitivity on receive is very good and the amp is pushing 30 Watts into the duplexers. The duplexers are 250 watt capable DB Products surplus and the controller is a CAT 700. The 3 remote bases consist of 3 Kenwood monobanders of late 80’s vintage driven by a Doug Hall Remote Base Interface.

My goal is to find a decent site with a secure building to house the repeater.

It takes good ears to hear the weak ones!

W4HKL

443.950 Overview

“Basically…”

Remote Base Operation

“Basically…” Part II, Electric Boogaloo

Jonesing For Antenna Space

2010-06-21T17:26:00.003-04:00

This is the sight that greeted me the first time I saw the field…

The first thing I did was check out the height of the press box. But then I saw it… past the scoreboard…

A self-supporting tower with an empty antenna bay.

Sweet.

Below is a water tower a couple of blocks fron the high school…

More to come…

Steve, W4HKL

Cape Hatteras Antennas

2010-06-21T17:26:00.001-04:00

Below are some of the antenna systems I saw on my trip to the Outer Banks. One thing’s for certain; when you’re at sea-level, you don’t often waste the chance to get on a water tower!

Just a sampling of what was there. They have a linked 440 system running the length of the island but I didn’t monitor it that much.

There were also several 2 meter repeaters on coast you could hit with an HT from Hatteras Island.

- Steve, W4HKL

W4HKL Mobile Station

2010-04-18T10:15:00.001-04:00

I’m pressed for time today so I’m just going to upload the pictures…

In the mean time, cruise over to K0BG’s site (http://www.k0bg.com/) for some really outstanding articles on what it takes to have a really good mobile install. You won’t find a better site for better info on many different kinds of mobile installations.

- W4HKL

My Mobile “QTH”

Three 15 meter contacts I made today

2010-02-28T14:36:00.000-05:00

...or 15 Meters was open this morning!

---
oe3dia
---
hi3tej
---
oe3dia
---

Steve, W4HKL

W4HKL Station Antennas

2010-02-14T13:54:00.001-05:00

Here are my antennas. Not a lot, but they do what i need them to do. I'm most impressed with the 80 meter Half-Wave End Fed vertical/inverted-L/longwire (you decide what it is!) It tunes form 80 - 10 and seems to do really well 80 -20 meters.

For VHF/UHF, I rely on a Diamond X3200 Triband vertical. I've had it for about 4 years and haven't had a single problem with it. It's mounted above the high eave at one side of the house opposite the repeater antenna. It's not that high above ground, about 20 feet, but the house sits at around 1300 ft. and I'm right at the top of the hill.

Diamond X3200 (click photos for larger image)

For my repeater/remote base, I use a Cushcraft ARX450B... a descendant of the old Ringo Rangers.

Cushcraft ARX450B

I mainly got it due to it being rugged, having a feeding method which decouples the antenna from the feedline... and the price was right.

Since mounting it up on the top of the house and feeding it with LMR400 (RG-8X, get behind me, devil!) it has a good shot into the Caryville/Jacksoboro area... with LaFollette and the Campbell Co. side of Hwy 63. I'd say you can hit it mobile from the time you round the curve at the Speedwell Post office. You should be in it until you’re on I-75. The main thing I want is HT coverage within a 7 mile radius and I think I've got it covered... and then some. Teh remote base antennas will be a dual band 2 meter/440 and a separate DB Products UHF 7 element yagi aimed at the Middlesboro 442.325 WM4MD repeater. I’ll be able to work the other UHF repeaters in the surrounding counties of that one as well (if it doesn’t desense too badly with the repeater.)

The view from the top of the hill. Over the roofline lies Jacksboro and

points NE…

The HF is covered by the following system: An Alinco EDX-2 remote autotuner feeding a 126 foot end-fed inverted-L strung up and through the trees. It is fed against an 8' ground rod and is working great (1/2 verticals are not noticeably improved with extensive radial systems; research L. B. Cebik half wave antenna, AA5TB End Fed Half Wave antenna; etc.)

Some pictures of my HF setup.

The front of the QTH. The last hill behind the house is it… on the other side is I-75 and Onieda… behind the camera is Caryville/Jacksboro.

The Alinco EDX-2 autotuner (8 ft ground rod below it)

The base of the antenna

The End Fed Half-Wave longwire

The Ground Crew, Buddy and Pugsly

Station W4HKL

HF station (Alinco DX-70, Alinco 32 amp switcher, Gap DSP Module

Rigblaster Plus for PSK31, etc), old IBM pentium M laptop)

The VHF/UHF Tower of “Babble”

Don't Let This Happen To You

2009-01-24T08:04:00.001-05:00

You've just got your Ticket and your love of Amateur Radio is in full-swing.

My advice is to step back, take a deep breath, and don't let it go to your head.

Really.

Or you might end up looking like this.

Really.

I bet I got most of these pics from Hamsexy.com....

Remember, New Amateur... don't let this happen to YOU.

Steve, W4HKL

Amateur Station W4HKL

2008-03-06T16:44:00.001-05:00

Below are some pictures of the W4HKL station.

A Plano plastic shelf was spray-painted to match the furniture of the living room. Over time, a few shelves and mounting brackets, etc., have been added.

Across the top you can see a pair of Motorola extension speakers and a couple of others that the VHF/UHF and scanner are routed through. I use an Icom SP-3 station speaker for HF audio. I have recently "discovered" HF digital (PSK-31) and the Buxcomm Rascal radio to soundcard interface is draped beside the SB-200.

To the left is my first radio, an Alinco DJ-180 HT which served as my portable, my mobile, and my base on 2 meters through my college years. There is one of two Radio Shack FRS HT's behind it. Scanning is provided with a RS Pro-2035. From left to right is a Kenwood TM-441A, and Alinco DR-235, and an Alinco DR-135. Below those three VHF/UHF rigs is a Gap "Hear-It" DSP module, an Alinco DX-70, and a LDG AT 100 Pro autotuner. The LDG serves double-duty in the mobile as well. The SB 200 amplifier is in great shape, and I'm working on the funds to get a tuner that will handle it. Power is supplied by two Alinco DM-330 32 amp switching power supplies.

The the Kenwood and 2 Alincos are fed into a Diamond triplexer which in turn feeds a a Comet CX-333 2m/220/440 vertical on the roof. HF antenna duties are performed by a 160 meter loop strung through the trees at an average height of aprox. 20 feet. As a cloudburner, it works great 160-40, but on 20 on up the lowering angle of attack exhibited by large loops in those bands works against me here down in the Gap. An Antron 99 vertical is also used for 10-17 meters if the loop isn't getting it done. A RS discone antenna is used for scanning and is also a back-up vhf/uhf as well.

The author - no doubt calling "CQ Repeater!"

If you would like to share photos of your station, mobile set-up, antennas, or amateur project, sent a write-up and photos to mountain.amateur.radio.club@gmail.com or to w4hkl@live.com and I'll see it's published ASAP.

QSL Card Design

2008-02-22T12:44:00.000-05:00

Below is about 2 hours of QSL Card design. It will be postcard sized and the signal report info, etc, will be on the back. You can click the image to see a bigger version.

- Steve, W4HKL

Choices and consequences of station lightning protection

2007-08-03T10:10:00.002-04:00

Here's a link t a great primer on grounding your station.

Choices and Consequences of Station Grounding

Steve
W4HKL

New Call

2007-08-01T11:41:00.000-04:00

IN case you didn't know, I upgraded to General this past Field Day. With visions of N4-calls dancing in my head, I checked the box to get a new call. Unfortunately, I got a callsign that even a new ham wouldn't have loved: KI4YAI. "YAI!!!" Well, the next day I applied for my great uncle Albert Smith's (SK) old call, W4HKL. Truth be told, I had forgotten his call, but ran across a note I had made concerning it way back in my high school days. In fact, if I hadn't found that note, I might never have remembered his call.

So, since 1x3 "W" calls are quite acceptable for those having a General amateur license, I decided that it was time to get that call. It was assigned to me on July 31, 2007 and i plan on keeping it until I am a SK (ironic in my case, as I have no interest in the code.)

Steve
W4HKL

Longest Contact So Far

2007-08-01T11:20:00.001-04:00

I just got a 5-9 signal report on 20 meters with W1UE portable Victor Echo 1 on 14.272 Mhz at 11:21 EST on 1 August 07... Nova Scotia on 100 watts into a loop antenna at 25 feet - I'm PUMPED!!!!!

Text Message vs Morse Code

2007-05-09T07:35:00.000-04:00

Some Amateur Radio Informational Videos

2007-05-06T13:59:00.000-04:00

---
"Hello..." Presentation on Amateur Radio

---
Amateur Radio Today

---
N2JMH PSYCHO HAM RADIO ROVER

---
Ham Radio Operator KI7F checks Into a Denver 2 mtr FM net

---
10 Meter FM Mobile

---
New General Hooked on RTTY

---
Radio Shack Scanner Pro-2037

---
Scanner Audio of an A-10 mission

---
Central Middle School students on Ham Radio

---
The AD4C Ham Radio Station Tour

---
Icom Radio News, Volume 1

---
Icom Radio News, Volume 2

---
Icom Radio News, Volume 3

---
...and just for fun,

Old Time Radio on Frasier 1

---
Old Time Radio on Frasier 2

---

Presentation of Radio-Based E-mail During a Disaster

2007-05-06T13:11:00.000-04:00

THE BOX: PORTABLE EMERGENCY COMMUNICATIONS STATION IDEAS

---

---

KB3JUV's Web Site

"Every Senior at Sussex Tech High School is required to do a Sussex Tech Exhibition of Mastery (STEM) Project by the end of their year. This project includes a long research paper, building a product related to the subject, as well as doing a presentation on it. My presentation was Radio-Based E-mail During a Disaster. I demonstrated the Winlink 2000 system and built a portable radio station that I could deploy to a disaster area. The following is a video of me doing the presentation to a group of teachers who had no idea what amateur radio even is. I needed to make the presentation easy enough for them to understand. For some of you, some of my comments might seem like common sense!"

- KB3JUV

----DHS SHARES Exercise 4/19/06----

Welcome!

2006-02-11T14:46:00.000-05:00

Hi, welcome to KE4ILP's amteru radio website. While this site is really just a place for me to keep links to amateur radio related sites on the web, you're more than welcome to use it too!

Have a great week,

KE4ILP